Berkshires A’Bud: LGBTQ-friendly northwest Massachusetts

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”Knee and Elbow,” by Nairy Baghramian, “Ground/Work” exhibition, Clark Art Institute

[This article appeared in the March/April 2021 issue of Boston Spirit magazine. Though we published it about a year ago, we find plenty here worth revisiting as we emerge into spring this year!]

Spring is upon us. The skies are warming. Flowers are starting to bloom. And after enduring another New England winter in this pandemic era, we’re all experiencing the urge to escape to fresh air and wide-open spaces.

To that end, Massachusetts’s beautiful Berkshire Mountains is always a fabulous, LGBTQ-friendly region to explore—especially in the spring, when all the wooded hiking trails and fresh food-raising farms are starting to wake up from hibernation. Within that broad expanse of the Bay State, though, make specific note of the northwest corner: The area surrounding North Adams and Williamstown, tucked near the borderlines of Vermont and New York, is a particularly pretty and peaceful place to retreat for a restful getaway or an artsy spring awakening. 

What to do? Start by booking a room at Tourists, a 48-room hotel that has earned a reputation for luring super-hip crowds since it opened in 2018. Sure, maybe they started coming because the place was cofounded by John Stirratt, bassist of the alt-rock band Wilco—but Tourists’ reputation has grown because it brings a contemporary, Brooklyn-cool twist on eco-lodging to the crunchy Berkshires. 

From the outside, Tourists’ inconspicuous, flat façade of white oak planks is a gorgeous upgrade to what used to be a one-star roadside motel. Now the guest rooms are sparely but stylishly appointed with rustic-chic furnishings, boast modern bathrooms with posh toiletries and heated floors, and feature private decks with outdoor showers. Indeed, establishing an immersive connection to the outdoors is central to Tourists appeal—and we’re not just talking about the unique air-circulation system, which replenishes each individual guest room with outside air every hour. 

There’s also the property’s eye-catching, 220-foot suspension bridge over the Hoosic River, which leads to a network of nature trails for exploring. Plus, the hotel hosts all sorts of small-group activities, from guided morning hikes to “stargazing and s’mores” nights. (If you’re hungry for something a bit more substantive, fear not, because chef Ty Hatfield’s in-room, family-style suppers of global-minded New American cuisine is absolutely topnotch.) All that said, there’s hardly a shortage of outdoorsy options in the Berkshires: Some of the more popular nearby attractions include Mount Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts; and Windsor Lake, a spot for swimming, fishing and taking in weekly free concerts come summer. 

While you can always pack a picnic for your walkabout, ‘tis the season for takeout—so consider supporting some excellent nearby restaurants. Wake up with eye-opening coffee and mouthwatering pastries from the friendly café Brewhaha, scoop up some juicy ribs or a sauce-slathered pulled pork sandwich from A-OK Berkshire Barbeque, or dive into eclectic New American cuisine and inventive craft cocktails at Public Eat + Drink. Public is in the heart of downtown, so it’s the perfect place to refuel after a little retail therapy in area shops: Check out The Plant Connector, an adorable place to find succulents, stylish décor items and curiosities; as well as Berkshire Emporium & Antiques, a sprawling store that is positively overflowing with treasures. 

The finest treasures of all, though, await in nearby cultural institutions like MASS MoCA, one of the world’s largest contemporary art museums housed inside a massive complex of former factory buildings. Current exhibitions include “This Is Not a Gag,” a pandemic-inspired series of mask paintings by Los Angeles–based artist Richard Nielsen, and a gallery dedicated to the surreal (and darkly sexual) sculptures of avant-garde icon Louise Bourgeois. Spring also sees a rescheduled live performance from indie rock band Car Seat Headrest, whose out frontman Will Toledo touches on LGBTQ themes in songs like “Beach Life-in-Death.” 

Although the nearby Berkshire Art Museum and Williams College of Art (in neighboring Williamstown) are temporarily closed due to the pandemic, you’ll also want to visit The Clark, an esteemed fine art museum filled with European and American paintings, sculptures and more, representing everyone from Monet to Manet to Boston-born Winslow Homer. The Clark’s 140-acre grounds are filled with walking trails that now meander by the museum’s first outdoor exhibition of commissioned installations, dubbed “Ground/work.” 

The Berkshires are a favorite stomping ground for LGBTQ New Englanders, but luckily, with gay travelers sticking to regional daytrips during COVID-19, the nook of North Adams still holds plenty of new territory to explore.

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