The Luxury Inns of Provincetown
There comes a time when your share of that condo on Commercial Street seems remarkably inadequate. Crashing in that closet your best friend calls a guest room will do nothing for your romantic life. You’re big girls and boys now and it’s time to start living large in a whole new sophisticated way.
One does not have to wander too far from Commercial Street to find opulence, elegance, and luxury. Like everything else in this magical city on the sea, there is something for every priority. Over-the-top decadence? Hidden romance? A-List see-and-be-seen? European hospitality? Modern, uncluttered and free from distractions? Make your reservations and hop on the ferry. Your Provincetown fantasy is here!
The Land’s End Inn
There is nothing unassuming about The Land’s End Inn. Perched a few hundred yards from Pilgrim’s First Landing Park, the inn’s porches imitate the decks of a ship, offering panoramic views of both the bay and the coastal shore. The structure’s original grandeur has only been amplified over time. Dragon sconces grace the wrap-around porch, lending an air of fantasy to the grayed woods and white wicker furniture. Winding brick paths surround the building leading to hidden nooks, porches and gardens that insist that you linger a little longer.
The interiors retain much of the magic created by the original owner, Mr. Charles Higgins, a Boston haberdasher who never married, who built the summer home in 1904. The parties Higgins threw were legendary and he made a point to invite the Navy sailors in town. Many were so grateful for the attention that they brought back many of the artifacts that still reside on the property. After Higgin’s death in 1926, the property was converted into an inn by the Buckler family. David Schoolman took over in 1972 and added the large veranda and new tower at the front of the building. On his passing in 1995, the inn passed into the David Schoolman Trust. Michael McIntyre acquired the deteriorating inn from the Trust in 2001 to preserve the integrity of the Provincetown landmark.
If God is in the details, the interiors are heavenly indeed. Lush carpets, heavy drapes, brass and stained glass everywhere, winged, lions-head, claw-footed antiques. Less may be more, but more is better. The living room is an explosion of damask, tapestry, and artifact. A portion of the original porch has been enclosed, with the external window creating an infinite-edged space blurring the lines between indoors and out. An old armoire alongside the concierge desk has been rigged to hide the staircase entrance to the Schoolman suite.
No matter what your taste —Chinoiserie, Japonisme, Grecian, Art Nouveau, Craftsman, even Cape Cod — there is a guest room perfectly suited to your tastes. This is a truly unique museum that happens to allow guests. Perhaps continuing traditions started by Higgins’ sailors, guests now bring pieces of art glass to add to the Inn’s collections. One of McIntyre’s favorite pieces is a valuable Erté figurine that is simply sitting behind a piece of glass in one the guest rooms.
One of the most jaw-dropping rooms on the property is the Bay Tower. A domed cupola lined in rich African myrtle wood is held up by five, windowed, exterior walls that give unparalleled views of the ocean. The true magic happens at night, with the windows covered, when guests are surrounded by a sea of rich silk and textured bamboo blinds, creating a mythic, tent-like experience. This is epic romance at its highest.
The location is a perfect choice for a wedding. Options include renting the entire complex, the lower garden level, a single suite with balcony, or an intimate ceremony in the solarium for that perfect photo opportunity. As concierge Joseph Gilmartin puts it, “We’ve traveled the world and stayed at the most luxurious places. And it’s that experience that we create for our guests.”
Carpe Diem Inn
At the Carpe Diem Inn, service is paramount. “When we started there were no amenities in Provincetown. A private bath and you were king in town,” jokes Jürgen Herzog, one of a trio of inn-keepers since 1997. An air of restrained country elegance combined with refined European hospitality permeates the majority of the public spaces on the property. The dining room has a large convivial farm table where guests gather each morning. “We make our own breads and müesli. We get our eggs fresh from a farm on the South Shore. I try to keep things healthy, but not boring.” A lush spread, including offerings from a seasonal garden, greets the more than forty guests that come down for breakfast each morning. Lively wine and cheese or margarita mixers are held nightly on an inviting, arbor-covered table.
The staff strives to create the ideal itinerary for their guests. “We’re here to be proactive, to anticipate our guests’ needs,” says concierge manager Ken Hogain. “I need to be able to determine what the guests’ definitions of ‘fun’ are. A night at Purgatory or a visit to the Provincetown Art Museum. Sometimes both!” Hogain is quick to set up bike rentals for active guests or a romance package with rose petals and champagne en suite for intimate getaways.
A crown jewel of the inn is the Namasté Spa. Guests are invited to partake in the spa’s Finnish dry sauna, exotic Hamam steam room, and exterior hydrojet spa tub. In the European tradition, all spa areas are clothing optional. Spa Director Dana Demurs has set up a full menu of revitalizing massages, wraps, and masks to address all relaxation needs. For out-and-out decadence try the Royal Hamam Ritual: a combination of deep cleansing, steam, exfoliation, and massage that will leave you completely renewed and pampered.
The Brass Key Guesthouse
The Brass Key is celebration central; this is where the A-list comes to see and be seen. The nine-building complex is centered around key party points: the Shipwreck Lounge, the gorgeous infinity pool, a ten-person hot tub, and a stunning events pavilion that is a perfect spot for weddings. Guests are welcomed with the clean masculine lines of the lobby, groupings of leather club and barrel chairs spread out for comfort. The Shipwreck Lounge is a small pub-like bar in honey oak, warm buttery tan wallpaper and a giant, marble, surround fireplace, a space that feels far too comfortable to serve such sophisticated upscale martinis. Bar-service also extends poolside, ensuring that guests never miss a moment in the sun. An adult-only, eighteen and over policy keeps the environment serene.
Originally a series of adjacent properties, the Brass Key team has created cohesion and unity while allowing each building its own unique personality. Individual guests rooms are uniquely appointed in Victorian, Cape Cod, or Modern Beach themes depending on the building. The Carriage House and the Victorian are the most formal, with pretty, traditional interiors that avoid being precious. The Queen Anne building has rooms done in Modern Beach with repurposed architectural headboards and graphic prints. The most popular guest rooms are situated with outdoor sitting areas that overlook the pool, allowing for great views that still offer a sense of privacy and exclusivity. Guests lucky enough to acquire the Cabana Suite get an entire building to themselves and poolside convenience.
Tucked back behind the Queen Anne building is the events pavilion. Hidden from the main activities of the property, lush landscaping and a dedicated entrance for guests help to create the ideal intimate wedding. In-house catering through Le Bistro across the street is available to transition from ceremony to party.
Crowne Pointe
A homey, romantic feel pervades the Crowne Pointe. The original captain’s home houses the Bistro serving up daily hot breakfasts for guests and candlelight seating in the restaurant at night. A full-service bar offers a comfortable waiting room and the downstairs Club Room, with elegant slipper chairs, sofas, and wine cabinets, feels like a CEO’s private wine cellar.
Babbling brooks meander between the property’s six buildings, along paths and under bridges that lead to a serene koi pond outside the Shui Spa. The spa’s facilities are complimentary amenities for guests but the wine-themed treatments and signature chardonnay products and services require you to book a massage, facial, or mani-pedi. Sitting in the meditation area after a soothing massage in the traditional tea house space is the ideal break you’ll need to leave reality behind and start your vacation. A plunge-pool and jacuzzi are also available.
This is the perfect spot to take that special someone when it’s all about the two of you. Guest rooms are luxuriously decorated in chocolates and creams, furnishings leaning towards transitional lines. Fully equipped kitchens are available for those intent on never leaving their rooms. The gourmet-worthy facility in the penthouse will have you inviting your new friends over for cocktails and hors d’ourves just so you can show off. Keep an eye out for stained glass windows that have been placed in interior walls around the property; they create plays of light and increase the sense of whimsy and drama.
Benchmark Inn
With clean lines and no clutter, Benchmark Inn is perfect for those who like their elegance understated and modern. Innkeeper Park Davis acquired the building in 1996 and started a complete refurbishment in 1997 using the building’s original Georgian lines and Davis’s passion for ocean liners as inspirations. The resulting guest rooms are a fresh modern take on a beach house, a “California Clean aesthetic,” says Davis. “If things didn’t serve more than one function, they didn’t stay.” With the absence of dressers and drawer units, Captain’s Beds seem to float in midair, their drawers tucked out of sightlines. The wall mirror hides an ironing board and additional storage. Warm neutral colors and an absence of artwork maximize the sense of space and don’t impede the surprising views of the bay. “We have the perfect cut of the harbor,” boasts Davis. Antique pine floorboards, luscious cherry-toned wood grains and Shaker craftsmanship keep the environment warm, never sterile.
Subtle, unique detailing enhances the luxury elements. Each room has a unique, dedicated entrance for privacy. A nice continental breakfast greets guests each morning in the first-floor common room. Each room is appointed with a Sleepnumber bed for individual comfort and bathrooms consist of all marble tile throughout. Most rooms have a wet bar in addition to a fridge and Keurig coffee maker. Complimentary airport and pier pick-up services are available. Located at the transition between the center of town and the East End, the Benchmark offers easy access to all attractions, nightlife, and galleries. A perfect choice for vacationers who enjoy all that Provincetown has to offer, but aren’t defined by any particular scene. [x]
Land’s End Inn
22 Commercial Street
508-487-0706
Carpe Diem Guesthouse
12–14 Johnson Street
800-487-0132
Brass Key Guesthouse
67 Bradford Street
800-842-9858
Crowne Pointe
82 Bradford Street
877-276-9631
Benchmark Inn
6 Dyer Street
888-487-7440
We asked our Innkeepers for recommendations on P’town’s Luxury dining scene. Here are a few of their offerings:
Victors
175 Bradford Street Extension
Upscale tapas in plentiful proportions served in a modern Cape Cod interior.
Ten Tables
33 Bradford Street
Krista Kranyak’s latest addition is perfect for P’town. Exquisite farm-to-table cuisine. Add an outdoor patio and oyster bar? Perfection.
The Lobster Pot
321 Commercial St
Ignore the tourists. This is some of the best seafood in town. The bouillabiasse and paella? I die.
Mews
429 Commercial Street
Sweet, beach-level dining room with upscale comfort food. Pleasantly romantic.
Ross Grille
237 Commercial Street
Herb Roasted Lamb Chops after an order of Poutine? You can hit the gym in the morning.
