Minus the trilogy of bars and smattering of gay-owned B&Bs, Ogunquit is its beach — and, face it, you can go anywhere on the Cape or scoot down to Newport for that. When people refer to the Maine coast, there is usually a descriptor — most often, “rocky” — and that’s exactly what you find when you head north from Ogunquit for a truly memorable adventure up the coast of Vacationland.
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Days Two and Three
Portland’s gay scene? Let’s just say that Maine’s largest city trends onto just about every relevant gay top ten list. Portland is definitely gay, though if your idea of gay is bars and clubs, you’ll be disappointed. People here have either adapted or relented, knowing full well that they can get to Ogunquit in less than an hour for their glitter fix. Of course, everything in Portland is beyond gay friendly. In fact, there doesn’t seem to be a gay/straight distinction, here — case in point is the most recent attempt at instituting a monthly guerilla gay takeover of the city’s “straight” bars. As yet, none of the regulars at the chosen locales have as much as batted an eyelash.
Portland — and Maine — managed to escape the worst of the economic downturn, and the elements that make it a destination are intact: its restaurants, galleries, and bustling Old Port, which rolls down to a stunning harbor of idyllic islands.
For more affordable fare, try Norm’s (617 Congress Street). It’s where gay and lesbian Portlanders take a first date, celebrate birthdays, or simply stop in for “a” drink after work only to be pushed out the door five hours later. The pours are generous, and the food is just plain good.
Day Four
Take a right on Route 27 and spend a night or two in Boothbay Harbor or nearby Southport Island. Because this vacation spot is one of only a handful on Maine’s midcoast that isn’t severed by Route 1, it makes for a more stress-free and adult-oriented destination. Wherever you go, sociability abounds, as does a decent-sized gay and lesbian community ranging from 20-somethings in town for summer work at local music theaters, to year-round same-sex retirees who love the solitude of what is one of the most unpretentious of Maine’s resort towns. You’ll see all kinds mingling at the traditional bars that dot the Boothbay waterfront.
Day Five
This area is manna for the older gay set: Carousel was filmed on the Boothbay wharf, and old timers still talk about the antics of Shirley Jones and Gordon MacRae. If you hop on Route 27, drive all the way out to the tip of Southport Island public landing, and gaze across channel at Jerry’s Island, you’ll be looking at the home of Margaret Hamilton — yes, the Wicked Witch of the West from The Wizard of Oz. While on Southport, plan some beach time at Hendrick’s Head, where a small swath of beach and a famous lighthouse of the same name provide one of the most picturesque views in the area. Or skip this all — or build in an extra day — to visit Monhegan Island (sidebar).
Days Six and Seven
Until it was leveled by devastating fires after the turn of the century, Bar Harbor was second only to Newport, Rhode Island as THE playground to the rich (Do the names Astor, Ford, Rockefeller, Morgan and Vanderbilt ring a bell?). And the rich and famous still have homes here, Martha Stewart and John Travolta among them. Although decidedly scaled back, the aura lives on. Larger than any other resort of its type in Maine, activities in Bar Harbor could keep you busy for a week: sea plane tours, kayaks, beaches, plenty of shopping, and great restaurants. But, with only a couple days, you should focus on Acadia, arguably the most beautiful National Park.
Acadia: The landscape here could not be any more different than Ogunquit, or Portland, for that matter, and that’s why you came. Sweeping postcard views of the ocean, lush forests, ponds, wildlife — everything you’ve heard is true. The only National Park in the country made up of donated private land, Acadia can be enjoyed by car, bike or foot. With limited time, drive the 20 mile Park Loop Road for access to all the major attractions and views. Beyond that, there are some must sees. (1) Cadillac Mountain. This is the highest point on the East Coast; many opt to get to the top early (meaning 4 a.m.) to be able to say that they were among the first in the U.S. to see the sun rise. (2) Jordan Pond. Serenity — when not overrun by tourists. Have a glass of wine and sandwich at the Jordan Pond Restaurant. (3) The cliffs and beaches. There are a multitude, most of them accessible from the Park Loop Road.
Day Eight
It has been a long week with a lot of driving. For that reason, head straight for Bangor on Route 95. If the weather is right, play hooky from work and spend another night in Ogunquit. Otherwise, stock up at the New Hampshire Liquor Store and get back to the grind. [x]
Monhegan Island
Monhegan Island
Monhegan Island is truly getting away from it all. In fact, discovering iPhone service on a recent trip was actually disappointing – you come here to disconnect. After a 12 mile boat ride from Boothbay Harbor, Monhegan has a few general stores in the traditional style, a picture perfect, grand island hotel short on amenities but long on tradition, a number of B&Bs, and enough art galleries to keep you busy for at least a day. Do a day trip to hike the island and take in some spectacular views. Or plan to spend the night, knowing that there is virtually no way to return to the mainland. And don’t expect taxi service once you arrive. There are no cars and no paved roads on the island, and the year round population rarely exceeds 65 people.
Monhegan has long been a retreat for artists and for lovers of art. The Wyeths, William Henry Singer and Edward Hopper have all spent significant time on the island. Their legacy lives on throughout as dozens of would-be and established artists perch along the island’s perimeter each day to capture a landscape that is frozen in time.
A hike, which you’ll want to do regardless of your stay allowance, can range from easy to moderate on the 12 miles of trails. Most choose to walk along the cliffs which are the highest on the Maine coast.
Grab a sandwich for lunch and wine for later at The Novelty, located behind the Monhegan House, which is where you will want to make dinner reservations. The menu is limited, but superb.
Expect to hit the hay early. There are no televisions on site, but plenty of cribbage boards and lots of visitors to the Inn who will more than likely want to share their experience of the day. [x]
